Fri, Feb 27 Raxruja to Antigua Guatemala

I should start looking at my compass more often. If I did this morning, I would have known that I was already on the east-west road, not south like I thought. So when I made the left turn at the T intersection at the end of town, I thought the next 12 miles of some of the bumpiest roads yet was the route to Cobàn - after all, there were buses going on this road with ¨Cobán¨ written on them.

I once read that asking for directions in Central America is only possible with people who actually drive, noone else. When I asked the gas attendants, all they knew is that Fray is the town I was currently in. In fact, they didn´t even understand ¨Cobán¨, even after my pronouncing it a few different ways. I ride a little farther, make a U turn, and asked a bus driver in the same gas station. He immediately pointed right back the way I came.

Apparently I missed a turn yesterday, because a while after passing my hotel (2 hours after leaving), I went straight, but didn't recognize the scenery. And a few looks as my compass told me I was heading west, then south. This must be the way to Cobán.

Some tricky mountain riding going into Guatemala City, with lots of slow trucks to maneuver around. My map has nothing to say about Ciudad de Guatemala, except that it exists, leaving me completely on my own to find my was across this huge metropolis, complete with highways, traffic, and urban sprawl. It took a while, but I made it to the road to Antigua, with the help of an English speaking guy at a gas station - boy, was I glad to find him.

All the roads in Antigua are cobblestone - this makes for a beautiful city, to match the cathedrals, arches, and really old architecture. However, it´s very difficult riding, expecially at slow speeds in the traffic. On only hunches, I made a couple turns and ended up in a neat looking hostel where I got a bed for 50Q - I'm sure if I looked I could find something cheaper, but this is nice, it's been a long day, and so far I'm the only one in my room. I'll probably stay here 2 nights.