A very long day today, with lots of distance covered. After the twisty road up the mountains and over the other side, it smoothed out, over huge desert hills. I had a great time bombing down the hills and coasting back up, and basically did only this all afternoon.
I almost took out a horse and rider today - they were crossing a 4 lane divided highway on a blind curve! My thumb pinned to the horn (not that it would do any good to a horse), I slammed on the brakes and was barely able to swerve around when I got to a slow enough speed.
When I was ready to stop for the night I was nearing the city of Zacatecas, a beautiful, hilly, historic city full of the dichotomy of old western-style buildings adjacent to huge Spanish Baroque catherdrals that seems to be common in this part of the country.
With all the hills and the traffic, I could feel my brakes going - first some strange sounds from the rear. When I stopped, they were blazing hot, so I used only the front for a while. After not finding any hotels the way I like them, only big fancy tourist ones, I talked to a guy who recomended I go to Jerez, about 50 km away, where I can get a nice place for a hundred pesos. Now with my front brakes cooking, I was glad to get out of that town. The sun setting directly into my eyes, I try to follow signs for Jerez, and I'm back on the same road I took into town, going back the direction I came from! Frustrated, and watching a beautiful sunset over the desert mountains, I keep going - and going - and there's no more signs for Jerez. At this point it's just about dark, my tank's just about empty, and I don't have a clue how far away the next town is - I only remember that there was a whole lotta nothin' around here. Eventually I reach VillaNueva and find a hotel for 90 pesos - not bad. I fill up the tank, find a taco stand at the park, and I'm ready for bed.
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