I have no clue where to begin writing this, besides saying that I'm really, really far away from where I was 24 hours ago.
Brownsville was actually a pretty nice town, very clean and modern. It took me a few U turns to find the place to get Mexican auto insurance, but it was really easy once I found it. COst me $30 for 5 days. I later found out I could have gotten it at the border crossing plaza with less hassle.
A $2.25 toll took me over the Veterans bridge, and there was no line at either the US customs or the Mexican side. The US Customs officer wanted to know where I was going (I lied as per the advice of the insurance broker - "Yucatan"), if I'm carrying more than 10,000USD's, and if I really rode that motorcycle from New York City.
The Mexican side was very confusing - cones were everywhere, lanes I wanted to be in were blocked, and ones I didn't were clear. Surprisingly, the customs people spoke very little english, and only asked me to open up my tank bag, didnt even look in it, and told me I was done. Then I realized I needed a vehicle import sticker, and had to go back a step, dodging traffic cones along the way. I don't know how cars do it, they would be completely stuck.
Here is the confusing part. Inside the building there were 4 sets of windows. For simplicity I will number them from left to right. 1. Imigracion 2. Seguro y copias 3. something I didnt recognize 4. Permiso de vehiculares
Naturally I go straight to 4, where I wait, 2nd in line and noone at the window. Someone came eventually, helped the other guy. I tell him I need a permit and started handing him my documents. He says go to 1. The woman at 1 sets me up with a tourist visa (262 pesos) and tells me I need copies of my documents and to take it to 4 and bring her back the reciept. I already have copies, so I wait on line to find out that I also need a copy of the form 1 just gave me! So I go to 2, where noone is there. I wait, and someone shows up and makes the copy. Copies are for tips only - I gave hime 50 cents. Back to 4, get the permit (439 pesos), back to 1 again, and then I'm done, and have a huge pile in my arms of papers, documents, reciepts, and my wallet. I bypass the customs, again weaving around cones, and I'm finally in the smelly dirty city that is Matmoros. Another couple of U turms (with people laughing at me when they see that I'm going back the way I came) and I'm on highway 101.
Something that confused me was the way the highways are set up. Each direction has a lane and a half, sort of an extra wide shoulder over a dotted white line. People drive ON this line, so that if someone wants to pass, they can freely do so without hazards to oncoming traffic. Everyone goes their own pace, it's not a race like on US Interstates.
The further into Mexico I got, the more beautiful the scenery became. Farmlands, then big rolling hills with brushy vegetation and cactus, then bigger hills and a huge lake, then tons of orange groves and the scent of oranges everywhere. Then, as I got closer to Ciudad Victoria, the outline of HUGE mountains showed up at the top of a hill. Although not as tall or sharp, it was a similar feeling to entering the Rockies from the east. I had no clue there would be giant mountains right there.
Victoria is a medium sized city with the usual outskirts, downtown, and market neighborhoods. Although I passed by a campground, I figured a hotel would be nice now that they won't be $60 a night, so I came back into the part of town I entered in to take a second look at some motels.
This one cost 220 pesos per night, and comes with a nifty little parking space for the bike. It's pretty dirty and run down, but I prefer that to paying twice as much (at least) for something with a shower curtain.
After taking a walk, I decided my first night in Mexico deserves some food, so I got some chicken from a very happy family a block down. It was damn good - came with rice, a soupy bean thing, a bag of salsa (?) and some tortillas. All for 60 pesos, about $5. Leftovers will be my breakfast.
Brownsville was actually a pretty nice town, very clean and modern. It took me a few U turns to find the place to get Mexican auto insurance, but it was really easy once I found it. COst me $30 for 5 days. I later found out I could have gotten it at the border crossing plaza with less hassle.
A $2.25 toll took me over the Veterans bridge, and there was no line at either the US customs or the Mexican side. The US Customs officer wanted to know where I was going (I lied as per the advice of the insurance broker - "Yucatan"), if I'm carrying more than 10,000USD's, and if I really rode that motorcycle from New York City.
The Mexican side was very confusing - cones were everywhere, lanes I wanted to be in were blocked, and ones I didn't were clear. Surprisingly, the customs people spoke very little english, and only asked me to open up my tank bag, didnt even look in it, and told me I was done. Then I realized I needed a vehicle import sticker, and had to go back a step, dodging traffic cones along the way. I don't know how cars do it, they would be completely stuck.
Here is the confusing part. Inside the building there were 4 sets of windows. For simplicity I will number them from left to right. 1. Imigracion 2. Seguro y copias 3. something I didnt recognize 4. Permiso de vehiculares
Naturally I go straight to 4, where I wait, 2nd in line and noone at the window. Someone came eventually, helped the other guy. I tell him I need a permit and started handing him my documents. He says go to 1. The woman at 1 sets me up with a tourist visa (262 pesos) and tells me I need copies of my documents and to take it to 4 and bring her back the reciept. I already have copies, so I wait on line to find out that I also need a copy of the form 1 just gave me! So I go to 2, where noone is there. I wait, and someone shows up and makes the copy. Copies are for tips only - I gave hime 50 cents. Back to 4, get the permit (439 pesos), back to 1 again, and then I'm done, and have a huge pile in my arms of papers, documents, reciepts, and my wallet. I bypass the customs, again weaving around cones, and I'm finally in the smelly dirty city that is Matmoros. Another couple of U turms (with people laughing at me when they see that I'm going back the way I came) and I'm on highway 101.
Something that confused me was the way the highways are set up. Each direction has a lane and a half, sort of an extra wide shoulder over a dotted white line. People drive ON this line, so that if someone wants to pass, they can freely do so without hazards to oncoming traffic. Everyone goes their own pace, it's not a race like on US Interstates.
The further into Mexico I got, the more beautiful the scenery became. Farmlands, then big rolling hills with brushy vegetation and cactus, then bigger hills and a huge lake, then tons of orange groves and the scent of oranges everywhere. Then, as I got closer to Ciudad Victoria, the outline of HUGE mountains showed up at the top of a hill. Although not as tall or sharp, it was a similar feeling to entering the Rockies from the east. I had no clue there would be giant mountains right there.
Victoria is a medium sized city with the usual outskirts, downtown, and market neighborhoods. Although I passed by a campground, I figured a hotel would be nice now that they won't be $60 a night, so I came back into the part of town I entered in to take a second look at some motels.
This one cost 220 pesos per night, and comes with a nifty little parking space for the bike. It's pretty dirty and run down, but I prefer that to paying twice as much (at least) for something with a shower curtain.
After taking a walk, I decided my first night in Mexico deserves some food, so I got some chicken from a very happy family a block down. It was damn good - came with rice, a soupy bean thing, a bag of salsa (?) and some tortillas. All for 60 pesos, about $5. Leftovers will be my breakfast.
The cool looking import sticket that sort of matches the decor of the bike.
Parked in the spot at the motel in Victoria
A dirty, dirty bike...
...and some awesome chicken
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